Training Games

There are a variety of games you can play with your dog to make training more fun. One of my favorites for developing a very solid recall is hide and seek.

You’ll need at least one partner, some training treats or your dog’s favorite toy, and your dog to get started. First, try calling your dog from person to person in the same room. As soon as your dog figures out that coming to each of you earns him a reward, you can up the stakes a bit. As Fido runs off to find Mary, you should move to a different room. Once he has found Mary, you can call him again while Mary goes to hide in another room. Not only will this reinforce quick recalls, it’s also a good way to burn off some energy during rainy (or snowy) days.

Once your dog is excelling at this game inside, you can take it to the yard, and then to the park.  This game is especially great for children, because they get to run around with their dog, all in the name of training.

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Walking on a Loose Leash (Heeling)

Heeling, or walking on a loose leash, is a must for dogs. No one wants to be pulled down the street by Sammy the Saint Bernard, holding on for dear life! Teaching your dog to walk politely at a young age will help you enjoy many walks in the future. With your dog sitting in heel position, say “Rover, heel”, and step forward on your left foot. Your dog will realize you’re moving and he will get up to come along. If he lags behind, you can ask him to hurry. Encourage your dog to return to heel position using a treat or toy. If your dog is ahead of you, or if the leash has any tension in it, stop right there. Don’t talk to your dog, just wait for him to look back at you to see why you’re not moving. As soon as he looks at you, praise him and call him back to heel position. If this is not working reliably, change directions randomly as you are heeling. As soon as Rover figures out that you are unpredictable, he will realize he needs to keep an eye on you and will pay attention when heeling. If your dog is a dedicated puller, determined to get as far down the path as possible, there are tools that will encourage him not to do so, like the Gentle Leader head collar.

With practice, your dog can walk politely at your side. Most pet owners do not care if their dog is precisely in heel position at all times, but are very concerned about not being pulled down the street, or through doors with an arm full of groceries. Keep practicing, though! This isn’t something that happens overnight!

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Teaching Heel Position

Heel position is directly on your left side, with the dog’s shoulder lined up with your knee.  This is taught by luring the dog into position.  The first way to get your dog into heel position is known as the military heel, or swing finish.  With the leash in your right hand and a treat in your left hand, take one giant step (smaller for small dogs) backward with your left foot.  Your right foot never moves.  This space will give the dog room to make the turn.  Using your treat, lure him back and turn him toward your body until his nose comes up right in front of your leg.  At this point, ask him to sit, and he is in heel position.  Reward your dog at this point.  You can also have your dog circle behind you and come to heel position without ever moving your feet.  This is very successful for large dogs, as it is sometimes difficult for them to negotiate tight turns.  You should have a treat in each hand for the ‘go around’ finish.  With the leash in your right hand, show your dog the treat in your right hand, and bring it around behind your back.  Then, once he is behind you, show him the treat in your left hand and lead him forward.  Once he is in the proper location, ask him to sit and deliver the treat.

Monday’s post will be about walking on a loose leash!

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Teaching Drop It

Drop it is taught similar to leave it.  This time, allow your dog to pick up the forbidden object (don’t practice with shoes until your dog learns the concept!).  Once the object is in his mouth, say “Fido, drop it.”  You will have to show him something more appealing in order for him to give up the item.  For example, if you are practicing with a rawhide, use a strip of pig ear to get him to drop the rawhide.  Always trade your dog for something better, and he will be eager to give up items that you don’t want him to have. 

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Teaching Leave It

Leave it is a wonderful thing to teach your dog, and can apply to a variety of situations.  Teaching leave it is easiest on a leash.  With your dog sitting next to you, have a helper toss something very appealing (like a rawhide) to your dog on the floor just out of reach of the end of his leash.  Let your dog go toward it, but he should stop at the end of his leash.  Say ‘Fido, leave it.” and wait for him to turn back to look at you.  As soon as he looks at you, reward him with a treat or a toy from your pocket.  Leave it will quickly translate into “Hey, look over here for something really great!” 

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Teaching Stay

Teaching stay is also taught on a leash.  In the beginning, you will have your dog in heel position.  Ask him to sit, and show him your empty right hand.  Say ‘stay’ and take 1 step to the right, leading off with your right foot.  Wait for 1 second, and return to your dog.  You can release him and praise him at this time.  You will gradually build the time up until your dog will reliably stay for over 5 minutes, even if you are not in the room with him.  Remember, every time you increase the distance, decrease the amount of time you expect your dog to stay.

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Teaching Recalls, or Coming When Called

Recalling your dog, or teaching him to come when called can be a lifesaver.  When your dog is learning this exercise, you must never use it when he is not on a leash.  Never call your dog to you for any sort of punishment, including bath time (unless you have a water-loving dog).  Always go to your dog for these things.  Teaching the recall is done with a long leash.  You will ask your dog to sit, and back up to the end of your leash.  Say your dog’s name, and ‘come’ in a happy, excited voice.  You may have to take a few steps backwards to encourage your dog to come forward.  Never drag him by his leash, as this will turn coming to you into something negative for him.  Even if your dog has just gone on a tour of the neighborhood, you still have to praise him when he finally comes back to you.  Otherwise, the next time he goes exploring, he will be even less likely to return.

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Teaching Down

Down is taught from the sitting position.  Once the dog is sitting, show him a treat and bring it slowly down in front of the dog, until it is practically on the floor.  Then, you can either push the treat back under the dog’s chest so he will lie down to keep it in sight.  As soon as his chest and/or elbows touch the floor, reward him.  Once this is happening reliably, you will require the dog to be lying on one hip instead of in the Sphinx position.  If pushing the treat toward your dog does not make him lie down, you can also pull the treat forward so he will nearly ‘crawl’ after it.  Your dog will show you which way is better for him.  Never physically force your dog to lie down.  This is a very submissive position that some dogs are not comfortable performing in front of an audience.  If you work with him slowly, and reward him gradually, you will have a reliable down in no time.

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Teaching Stand

Like sit, stand is also taught using a treat as a lure.  Once the dog is sitting next to you, put a treat in front of his nose.  As you say ‘stand’, pull the treat straight forward approximately 6 inches.  The dog will stand up to reach the treat.  You do not want your dog to move forward, but to stand in the same location he was previously sitting.  When he is standing, deliver the treat.

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Teaching Sit

Sit is taught using a treat as a lure.  Holding the treat in your hand, raise it slowly above the dog’s head and slightly back, directly in front of his nose.  In order to keep the treat in sight, he will sit so he can look back at it.  As his hindquarters touch the floor, say ‘sit’ and deliver the treat.

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